Cast iron grates give you better sear marks and heat retention than stainless — but only if you maintain the seasoning. New grates need an initial seasoning before first use; existing grates need a re-season after every deep clean. The process is the same as seasoning a cast iron skillet: thin oil, hot heat, repeat.
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If you're restoring old grates, scrub off rust and flaking seasoning with a stiff wire brush until you see bare gray metal. For new grates, skip straight to step 2 — they ship with a protective coating that burns off during seasoning.
This is the ONLY time you'll wash these with soap. Use warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly, and dry every surface with a towel. Then put them on the grill at low heat for 5 minutes to drive off any remaining moisture — water trapped under seasoning causes rust.
With the grates warm (not hot), apply oil with a folded paper towel. Then take a CLEAN paper towel and wipe the grates back down hard. The surface should look almost dry — if you can see oil pooling anywhere, you've used too much. Excess oil is the #1 reason home seasoning goes gummy and sticky.
Place grates back on the grill, close the lid, and turn all burners to high (or build a hot charcoal fire). Target dome temp 450-500°F. The oil will smoke as it polymerizes — that's the chemistry working. Stop when the smoking stops.
Let the grates cool until you can handle them safely, then wipe on another microfilm of oil and bake again. New grates need 3-4 cycles to build a solid base. Restored grates need 1-2.
Skip vegetables and lean fish for the first cook. Bacon, chicken thighs, or a fatty pork shoulder will reinforce the seasoning. Save the [reverse sear ribeye](/recipe/reverse-sear-ribeye) for cook #2.
Initial seasoning on new grates, then a single re-season once a year or after any deep scrub. Day-to-day, just brush hot, wipe with an oiled rag, and the seasoning self-maintains.
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