Best Boat Grills — Marine Grills Tested on Salt Water

316 stainless is the whole ball game. Marine-grade 316 contains molybdenum, which resists the chloride pitting that eats 304 and 430 stainless in salt air. If a listing just says 'stainless steel', assume it isn't 316 — and expect rust freckles by the end of your first saltwater season.

Budget for the mount separately. Rail mounts, rod-holder mounts and deck sockets are almost never included, and they run $60-120. Never improvise with hose clamps: a grill that shifts underway is a fire and a very expensive splash.

Infrared beats open flame in wind. An infrared plate heats a radiant surface instead of throwing a flame at your food, so apparent wind pulls far less heat away — and dripping fat vaporises instead of flaring up next to your dock lines.

Match the fuel to how you cruise. Disposable 1 lb canisters are fine for day boats. If you're cruising or living aboard, a grill that plumbs into the boat's low-pressure propane system saves money and locker space — but have the plumbing done properly, with the correct regulator and solenoid.

Charcoal on a boat only works with a captive lid. A hemispherical enclosed body contains embers, and a hinged lid can't blow overboard. Let coals die completely with the vents shut, then dump cold ash into a sealed metal container and dispose of it ashore.

Rinse with fresh water after every saltwater trip. Thirty seconds with a hose and a wipe-down of the grate is the difference between a grill that lasts ten years and one that looks tired after two — even on 316 stainless.